The stairs of Phnom Santuk with 809 steps flanked by nagas (snake trees) may not lead to an actual heaven but it promises a divine experience on the mountain summit: golden shrines, carved images of the Buddha, an active monastery and impressive views of Cambodia.
Despite of the rough and unforgiving road to the top, visitors are rewarded with a tranquil mountain view and pagodas spread out in several areas shaded by trees. Colossal stones are hewn around the perimeter of the shrine, exhibiting carved images of the Buddha, bas-reliefs depicting the Buddhist faith and a ferocious lion head standing on the entrance of the modern vihara (monastery).
For centuries, the site has been the seat of worship since the reign of King Ponhea Dharma Reacha. A number of scholars believe that some of the rock face carvings, particularly the large Buddha attaining Nirvana, date back to as far as 1494. With the site's historical importance notwithstanding, it is also surrounded by legends rooted in Khmer folklore. Locals believe that the former name of the mountain was Phnom Ason Mean Tuck which is linked to the native tale of the king and his ill-fated child.
After a kilometer of long grueling descent from Phnom Santuk, visitors can take a plunge in the nearby waterfall for a refreshing bath and enjoy a splendid view over the flood plains of the Tonle Sap, offering a glimpse of the hills of Kompong Chhnang. Today, the spot is marked with a blue painted arrow, a troop of monkey and beggars lining the steps waiting for some coins to be dropped down the crevice for good luck.