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Tourism is almost dead in Danua Toba. For the local tourism board, this may seem like doom, but for travelers in search of off-the-beaten paths, this spells a great opportunity to feel like owning the largest volcanic lake in Southeast Asia and the largest caldera in the world, even for just a few days. Touted as Sumatra's loveliest lake, Toba was formed some 70,000 years ago by a volcanic tantrum blamed to have caused the Ice Age. Now, Lake Toba, which is even larger than Singapore, carries into its womb the Palau Samosir, an island within the island of Sumatra. Palau Samosir is the home of the Batak tribe, who continue to make friends with tourists through their music, jungle juice parties, and traditional...

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