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At dusk, this city drops its shutter, leaving scattered pockets of neon lights in its vinyl super clubs that open at midnight, stocked with expensive liquor and Ukrainian dancers. As in Cuba, classic American fin-tailed cars in the 1950's are park on the streets.
In the morning, a better Syria emerges - the old city, girded with the Roman walls pierced with nine gates packed with souks, minarets and at its heart, the eight-century Umayyad Mosque, where the relics of many religions slumbers side by side.