Those with a particular interest in the history of the Khmer empire visit Udong. Branded as the abandoned capital of Cambodia, the city enjoyed the recognition of being the royal capital from 1618 to 1866. Udong is set on the top of the mountain with the spires of stupas pointing out from the sky, reminders of a kingdom with kings and queens living in harmony in their land. The dreamlike state, however, was only transitory; Udong was bombed and desecrated by the Khmer Rouge in 1977 and by the Americans during the Vietnam War.
At present, visitors can still get a glimpse of Udong's peculiar beauty that no war has been able to steal. The ruins spread over the two hills are viharas (shrines) of Phnom Vihear Leu flanking Pol Pot's memorial victim's prison and the Arey Ka Sap pagoda Buddha statues, and sixteenth century relics of theTa San Mosque. On the larger ridge, Phnom Preah Reach Throap, which is also known as the "Hill of the Royal Fortune," entices visitors with the impressive structure of Vehear Preah Ath Roes as well as the large stupas decorated with interesting colors and designs -reminiscent of the untroubled days of the past kings.
Udong can be thoroughly explored at a comfortable pace in a couple of hours. The place can be very peaceful on weekdays because tourists are scarce, but on weekends, it can be quite busy with tourists and local wedding parties moving to a few resorts in the nearby Phnom Penh.
The best way to get to Udong via road is a motorcycle ride. Here tourists can buy some souvenirs from the cluster of shops selling hand-loomed Cambodian silks, scarf (krama), colored gems, and the traditional silver betel container which is often shaped like fruits, vegetables and animals originally used in ceremonial betel chewing, a tradition in South-East Asia.