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One of Tunisia’s largest cities, Sousse sits on the sprawling 250,000-hectare old Phoenician colony of Hadrumetum. Scientists believe it is even older than the more famous city of Carthage. Its ideal climate and fertile lands have become the favored setting of 57 million olive trees that grow abundantly anywhere in the city. The Phoenicians, Romans, Byzantines and Arabs, too, have been captivated by this site and its hospitable, easy-going people, who in the passage of time have witnessed foreigners come and go in the form of adventurers, conquerors, fugitives, warriors, missionaries, traders or farmers—only traceable today through history written in fortresses, mosques and mosaics.
The city boasts of a stunning beach, whose closest strip to the center gets extremely jam-packed, mainly by Tunisians with families. Although afternoons make the beach crowded and seemingly unclean, this is a perfect time to meet new friends. It is not a surprise to find locals in a ball game with strangers. Boats and yachts parade along the coast.
When the water is cold and uninviting for a dip, the Medina, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is just across the street from the beach to offer a usual mix of old and new. Hotels and lodges in French colonial or Modern architecture cater to all budget ranges. Restaurants offer intercontinental and local cuisine personalized the Tunisian way with spices such as honey, saffron, karri, muscat and cinnamon—flavors that tantalize more and more people to get into the city’s winding, wide and narrow streets. Dollars are accepted, even in shops that offer the usual Tunisian trade: carpets, dyed cloth, porcelain, traditional furniture (caskets), copper goods, leather bags, jewelry, perfume bottles and olive oil, which are as pandemic as deceitful vendors. Nightlife comes in the usual Western way: beers and dancing at clubs.
What Medina is best-known for is the Khalaf El Fata tower, constructed in 859 as a lighthouse that affords an impressive view of the town. Nearby is the fortress El Ribat, a seemingly legendary castle; the Sousse Archaeological Museum in Kasbah holding the country’s second most important collection of Ancient Roman mosaics; the Zaouia Zakkak offering the finest examples of Ottoman architecture in Sousse; and The Catacombs, with 100-meter tunnels showing the skeletons of early Christians.
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