Looking at the quaint and sleepy town of Kirtipur, one might be surprised to know that it featured prominently in the shaping of Nepal's modern history. Believed to be one of the oldest settlements of the Kathmandu Valley, it once served as the capital of ancient Nepal. Located in a strategic hillock, Kirtipur was the first line of defense for the Malla Kingdom. Its easily defensible position led it to be the first place attacked by the legendary King Prithvi Narayan Shah in 1768 as part of his campaign to unify the kingdoms of Nepal. As the battle raged on, however, it was evident that the Kirtipur resistance was strong and formidable - only succumbing after a long and bitter...