With many people having their own digital cameras, some hobbyists want to separate themselves from the pack by shooting and creating HDR photographs which are a lot crisper, more vibrant and saturated with color than the usual. In quick, easy steps, We demonstrate how you too can shoot an HDR photo, which you can brag about to your friends.

HDR stands for High Dynamic Range and can only be achieved in digital photography. It’s starting to create a buzz in the world of photography because images achieve a dream-like quality once processed using this technique. HDR photographs have a higher brightness and darkness contrast of their color value, thus coming out more detailed and with an intense coloration.

Usual photos are referred to as LDR (low dynamic range), taken straight from a camera without any manipulations. It’s not always that a good photographer with a top-notched camera can capture an exact image perceived by the eye. HDR goes beyond what an ordinary camera can capture in one shot in terms of tonal changes and aesthetic look. In a nutshell, a photographer can create an HDR photograph by taking three shots of the same image using different exposures. He then merges these shots into one picture using a photo editing software, such as Photoshop.

Landscapes are most preferred in HDR photography not only for the lack of movement but for its variety of textures, colors and contrast. When done with an HDR technique, photos look sharp and detailed due to the extreme exposure range. It often preferred by landscape photographers since they use natural lighting for their pictures, with results that come out either too light or too dark.

A sunset reflecting on the water sets a perfect scene for HDR photography. There is softness involved, almost dream-like in areas of strong contrast. The sky will turn into dramatic bluish and orange hues as if it has been taken out from an image of a painting. The sun and clouds will add to the effectiveness of the reflection. HDR photos stir deep emotions and trick your imagination to see beyond what a normal photograph looks like.

How to photograph in HDR:

STEP 1: Taking Photos

• Mount your camera on a tripod or any stable surface. Make sure your camera doesn’t move in between shots so the images can map correctly during post-processing.

• Set your DSLR camera on Manual (M) mode and the lowest ISO setting. Aperture setting should be higher (at least F8.0) to capture the full range of light. The bigger the aperture, the faster your shutter speed will be to freeze any moving object. For advanced photographers, shooting in RAW is preferable. RAW file format is equivalent to negatives in film photography. This gives the photographers more flexibility in manipulations and adjustments of a picture using a photo editing software without destroying its quality until it is finally “developed” into JPEG or TIFF image file.

• Take the same pictures (minimum of 3 shots) with varying exposures – overexposed (+1ev), underexposed (-1ev) and normal (0ev). Look for Exposure, AEB (Auto-Exposure Bracketing), EV or the +/- symbols on your camera. Modern cameras today include the point-and-shoot and bridge cameras support Manual Mode, Continuous shooting, Exposure Bracketing, timer and RAW image format. For DSLRs, you can set different exposures through its Auto-Exposure Bracketing and the camera will automatically shoot the same frame continuously without having to touch the camera to change settings. You can attach a cable release to your camera for more control on time delays in between taking the shots or simply adjust the timer of your camera. The slightest movement of the camera will cause misalignment and blurriness of the photos when you merge them.

STEP 2: Post-processing 

• Transfer the images to your computer. To merge these pictures, you can use Photomatix, which is a software mainly used for HDR photography or Adobe Photoshop CS2 and above. Blending the photos with different exposures will increase the dynamic range of the final photo.

• Concentrate on the contrast, brightness and darkness adjustments in post-processing. After the color corrections and manipulations, you can start with tone mapping wherein you adjust the highlights and shadows of the picture. The overexposed shot captures the highlight details; the underexposed shot captures the shadow details while the normal shot captures the mid tones.

• Tone mapping takes these varying tones together and merges them into a single image. The final touch is sharpening of the picture. You can browse the Internet for more detailed tutorials using Photomatix and Adobe Photoshop.

Settings for tone mapping:

1. Saturation – Colors come out more or less depending on how you adjust it to make the photo look more vibrant.
2. Strength – Controls the HDR effect of the photo. Be careful not to overdo it or the photo will end up “overcooked.”
3. Luminosity – Increase if the photo is too dark, decrease if the photo is too light. The higher the luminosity, the more noise (grainy pattern) it creates on the photo, which can be visible on a single color area.
4. Gamma – Gives a darker mood when decreased. To avoid noise, increase the gamma with the same level as luminosity.
5. Smoothing – Play with the options to see how much of the light on the photo is being smoothed. Medium or high will do just fine.
6. Microcontrast – Set it to high for the objects on the photo to contrast one another.

Whether you’re a professional, an amateur or a hobbyist – explore, experiment and feed your interest. Happy shooting!