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The Glossary

chowk - "the main square with a market, the focal point of directions given by maps and locals"

From Nepal Glossary

An ancient treasure of Nepal, the hilltop settlement of Bandipur is a place where it seems as if time has stood still. Once a bustling trading point for Newar traders during the 17th century, it sits regally 1,005 meters above the ground, and has been able to keep its traditions and cultural heritage intact through all these years. Only recently opened for tourism, Bandipur is refreshingly devoid of tourist development, and is certainly a destination off the beaten trail that warrants a visit.

Trudging through its rugged streets, one will immediately notice the charm of simple rural living in this remote village. It's not unusual to see farmers tending their fields and selling produce at the markets, children running around and playing, mothers weaving baskets and clothing, as well as livestock wandering all over the place. One can really feel like being transported back through centuries. The highlight in Bandipur, however, is still its collection of temples, monuments, sacred caves, and unique Newari-style architecture that makes it seem almost like an open-air museum.

Tourists are often found clambering up the mountains surrounding Bandipur, where they will be greeted by a bird's eye view of the Himalayan fortresses and lush fields upon reaching the summit. One may also try trekking to the nearby caves considered as holy by the locals - such as the unique Pataali Dwar, known as the "Gateway to Hell" and the Swargadwari, which is called the "Entrance to Heaven." In addition, there is the Gadhi, a fort built on a hilltop whose trenches and walls have survived the test of time.

Bandipur doesn't lack in temples, either. Probably the most revered is the Khadga Devi Temple, said to possess a sacred sword that was a gift of god Shiva to King Mukunda Sen, who once ruled over the land. Just don't try to look at it, because it is believed that anyone who gazes upon it will meet instant death. Quite predictably, the sword is covered with cloth. There is also the Bindebasini Temple, an example of Newari architecture at its finest. It contains an idol of the goddess Durga, in whose honor the so-called Bisket Festival is celebrated every April. Finally there is the Mahalaxmi Temple, a pagoda-style structure built as a monument to the goddess of wealth. Those who have dreams of getting rich should probably visit it.

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