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Two-thirds of the Marshallese population live in the capital Majuro, the nation's political, economic and transport center built on the 64-island atoll of Majuro. Scottish writer Robert Louis Stevenson, author of Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde, called Majuro "the pearl of the Pacific." While the capital's living conditions have degraded since Stevenson's visit, there are still postcard-worthy settings left in Majuro that remain loyal to his descriptions like that of the main attraction, Laura Beach, a white-sand stretch famous for picnics. The Majuro Atoll itself has a few things to offer itself apart from the nearby port, shopping district, hotels and an international airport, which makes it a good base for examining the surrounding islands. For an early-evening sport fishing and diving, there is the D-U-D Lagoon, a 30-mile yacht away from Laura. Forty-five minutes from Majuro's Uliga Island is the small atoll of Enoko, a destination for day trips or overnight stays. Some tourists even rent the whole Enoko to keep it to themselves for a day or a night. For those who do not have their own yacht, island hopping can be done through cruises or on the traditional outrigger canoes. Sailing is particularly popular at the Majuro Lagoon. Majuro's main road is also a beehive of taxis offering inexpensive fares anywhere in the city, except on the route to Laura Beach, where the cheaper transportation means is the bus. Years of dependence on the United States has made Majuro heavily westernized. Schools are everywhere, and million-dollar homes sit next to rusting tin dwellings. Hamburger and other imports have found their way on the traditional menu of breadfruit, arrowroot, pandanus and taro. Nonetheless, parts and parcels of native customs still linger, like the tattooed elderly males and females recalling their warrior past. Souvenir shops and supermarkets also offer native handicrafts like coconut husk hats, mats, bags, and other thingamajigs made of shells, jab (hibiscus fibers) and malwe (coconut frond).
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