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Situated in Tarawa Atoll, South Tarawa may be one of the world's most densely populated and severely poverty-stricken places. But that is not the reason why tourists come to this capital of Kiribati. That is mainly because it is never short of war relics and song-and-dance. Recognized also by its English name, Teinainano Urban Council, South Tarawa is not a single town but a group of islets surrounded by a coral atoll. Naturally, boating is the best way to navigate through its features like Betio Islet's Second World War remnants, which are reminiscent of South Tarawa's saga during the Japanese occupation and the Battle of Tarawa, a 1943 marine assault that is judged as one of the fiercest in war history. The presence of skulls, bulldozers, gun emplacements and other war souvenirs make wreck diving a common tourist activity in South Tarawa, while the place's full-moon-looking sunset attracts shutterbugs. There is also a tiny, wartime jail wherein tourists can check in for the night. Public performances in modern South Tarawa are generally done in broad, tropical light, often under the shade of coconut trees or of skeletal auditoriums. A seated chorus, accompanied by a guitar, sings historical narratives about love, religion, patriotism and war. The standing dance (Te Kaimatoa) or the hip dance (Te Buki) is executed by a group of dancers in grass skirts and other traditional Melanesian costumes. A wooden box is usually used as percussion instrument, while movements are limited and staggered. Smiling while dancing is considered a disrespect to the dances, which are viewed in high regard. Kiribati's parliament and presidency hold office in Bairiki islet, while Ambo islet is noted for its golf course and rolling sands. Four hours by boat from Tarawa is Abiang, unique for its village scene that includes women weaving thatch or salting clams and children shouting "Mauri!" (Hello) to an I-Matang (white person). Visitors usually hike or bike towards a Catholic church, which has become a famous landmark for its rainbow-colored windows. A thriving village life is also evident in the nearby Abemama, which has its own royal family. You may come across an endemic species there—the tiny yellow ‘barking' frogs. Something very interesting to the visitors can be the information that Scottish writer Robert Louis Stevenson, author of Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde, visited Abemama in 1889.

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