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The Glossary

kaki lima - "or "five legs," referring to the food cart's three legs plus the vendor's own legs."

From Indonesia Glossary

Tana Toraja's famous burial rites can range from spectacular to gruesome depending on who's viewing it. In this highland region south of Sulawesi, the Toraja people are predominantly Christian with a penchant for animism. They keep their dead in their homes for years, until they can save enough money to launch an elaborate funeral ceremony, usually after harvest in July to October. The Ma'Bua funeral festival may last to up to a week of ritualistic Manganda dances, buffalo fights, and slaughtering of pigs and buffaloes, which are believed to help ferry the dead safely to the afterlife. Finally, the deceased is buried in a shallow tree or a small cave, often marked by a tau-tau (effigy) at the façade. Sometimes, the body is framed in bamboo before being left hanging on a cliff, as if it's just a picture put into a frame and nailed on a wall.

There are many trails, mostly lasting from an hour to three hours, leading to many different gravesites. Most can be reached through short bemo (minivan) rides from Rentepao and do not require guides. After a hike, ballok or Tana Toraja's "extra" strong homemade beer is a must-try.

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