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A silent witness to both world wars, the city of Hrodna in northwest Belarus is a land completely forgotten by capitalism - featuring a decidedly Soviet-era atmosphere and lacking any trace of Western influence. Lying next to the banks of the Neman River, it is considered as one of the country's largest and most historical cities. Its unique ambiance, despite the impressive architectural sights around, is what definitely catches the attention of many a foreign traveler. In this heavily Westernized world, it is somewhat refreshing to actually find a place where there are no fancy fast food establishments or gigantic billboards anywhere.

Established by the Baltic Yotvingians as a strategic stronghold and a trade center, it was absorbed by the Duchy of Lithuania during the 11th century. However, in the wake of World War I, it was invaded by Germany in 1915 and they eventually ceded it to Poland in the face of the impending Polish-Bolshevik War. The Red Army of Russia swept through the city in 1920, and developed it economically and architecturally. It became a major site of bloodshed at the outbreak of World War II, with the advance of Nazi Germany in 1941. Many of its inhabitants were exterminated in mass executions, which ceased only in 1944 when it was liberated by the Allied Powers. In 1945, it finally gained independence under the newly-established Republic of Belarus.

The city's landscape is dominated by many old castles, cathedrals and monuments. Its most well-known landmark is the majestic Cathedral of St. Francis Xavier, a Baroque-style edifice built in 1678. There are also the Old Grodno Castle - a stone marvel commissioned by the Grand Duke Vytautas, and the Kolozha Church of St. Boris and Gleb - the sole remaining infrastructure that exhibits the Black Rutherian style of architecture. Though by all means a large and relatively modern city, it has retained a small-town feel. When tourists get tired of the sights, they can just relax and hang out by the tranquil riverbanks.

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