The former capital of the Himalayan kingdom Ladakh is now in the Leh district situated in the state of Jammu and Kashmir in northern India. It is a land of gompas and surreal landscape. Leh is surrounded by the Zanskar mountain range in the south, Ladakh in the north and the great Karakoram in the northwest region.
At first glance, the landscape may appear to be barren but glaciers feed the many streams and irrigate the fields creating brilliant patches of green valleys. Since it is a small district, it's easy to get to most places on foot. Leh has few tourist sites to offer but the historical value attached to its destinations is truly great. The former palace of the King Ladakh built in the 17th century is the most conspicuous building in Leh. It soars high among the many Buddhist temples such as the Namgyal Tsemo Gompa, Soma Gompa and the Karma Dupgyud Choeling, a monastery in the Karma Kagyu tradition. In the countryside, one will be welcomed by a far different picture, that of the brick houses and narrow lanes, which lie near the Main Bazaar of Changspa with its suburb vibe and crammed guesthouse.
The decline of the old town, the acute poverty of the people, the loss of cultural identity due to migration and rapid economic changes are among the many problems of the district. Trading slowed down with the partition of British India and ended with the closure of the border in early 19th century. However, with the construction of Manali-Leh highway large numbers of Kashimiri traders have started coming.
There are two roads leading to Leh, one from Srinagar in the west, and another from Manali in Himachal Pradesh in the south. Both ways are evenly spectacular, but time consuming leading through narrow, windy roads and numerous military check points. It's advisable to take the southern route, due to its lower elevation reducing the risk of altitude sickness.
The bazaar of Leh offers a variety of souvenirs, from the Tibetan antiques to Pashmina shawls. You can have your choice of books on topics ranging from history and classics to guidebooks in the many bookshops. Some sweet shops sell samosas and chana dhal among other Indian junk food. One can enjoy a thukpa and momos at the Tibetan styled restaurant tucked in the main bazaar if you prefer vegetarian diet.
